The mid Island area contains several high quality crags. We strongly recommend the excellent Nanaimo Crags guidebook which is now on its 7th edition and contains more than 500 sport, trad and mixed routes. The guide contains all the info you will need for all Nanaimo climbing, including detailed directions, drawings and crucial route information. It is available at the Romper Room and VPO.

Here is a brief overview of some of the crags in the mid Island.

Sunny Side

Located on the north side of the Nanaimo river, Sunny Side is a breathtaking setting on two levels (upper and lower). The upper section has numerous beginner to advanced sport and trad routes on sandstone and conglomerate which are climbable for much of the year due to the full sun exposure and constant river wind. The lower section contains fewer rope routes but an ever expanding number (many dozens) of boulders on river rock that are seasonally available and range from V0 to V10+. Download the Nanaimo Bouldering Guide here.

IMPORTANT: it is very important that no climbing take place at Sunny Side within 3 days of heavy rain. This is crucial as the rock is very delicate after rain.

Linley Valley / Rutherford Ridges

Multiple crags make up this area located in the middle of Nanaimo. An excellent area to bring newcomers due to the very easy approach and easily accessible top rope set ups. The area also contains exceptional routes for all levels, including a selection of expert routes up to 5.14. Mostly bolted with a small amount of trad on excellent basalt.

Mt. Benson

Mt. Benson looms over all of Nanaimo to the west and contains multiple climbing areas, some with multiple crags in an area. Lower Benson has multiple longer mixed and sport routes on excellent basalt. Upper Benson has many sport, trad and mixed routes. The recently developed crags of Longview and Northwood contain some of the highest quality rock to be found anywhere, including some routes that require a 70m rope.

Westwood Ridges

Located behind Westwood Lake, this area offers excellent moderate to expert climbing on solid basalt. The routes are sport, trad and mixed with good top access.

Horne Lake

Horne Lake contains perhaps the greatest concentration of expert level climbs in Western Canada. With multiple areas, Horne is a world class climbing jewel. Join the Horne Lake Climbing group on Facebook to learn more and stay up to date.

IMPORTANT: all Horne Lake crags are located on private property, owned by the local home owner’s strata. MICA is in regularly communication with the strata. It is crucial that all climbers at Horne bring the highest level of respect to the area, including following any seasonal closures due to fire risk, or access could be permanently lost.

Duke Point Boulders

Located near the Duke Point ferries, this area contains several boulders on sandstone with easy to expert boulders. A very easy approach once you find it! Download the Nanaimo Bouldering Guide.

Sutton Pass Boulders

Located near Port Alberni, Sutton Pass has hundreds of boulders in two main areas. A long drive from Nanaimo (90 minutes) is balanced by a very short approach on foot, and some world class granite boulders are your reward. Find more info about Sutton Pass bouldering here.